What Is a Jointer Used For?

A jointer prepares a flat face and a straight reference edge for later woodworking steps. It removes high spots from cupped, bowed, or twisted lumber rather than forcing the wood flat.

The cutterhead sits between 2 tables. The infeed table sets how much wood comes off, while the outfeed table supports the newly cut surface.

Face jointing establishes the broad reference surface. Edge jointing then uses that surface against the fence to produce a straight edge at the chosen angle.

What is a jointer used for before a glue-up?

A jointer straightens mating edges so boards can meet without gaps. A square fence and a flat reference face help keep those edges square to the board faces.

For a tabletop or cabinet panel, check the mating edges together before adding glue. Clamps shouldn't have to pull a large bow out of an edge to close the joint.

Jointing won't repair splits, loose knots, or deep checks. Reject damaged stock or cut away the damaged portion before milling, while keeping every piece within the machine's workpiece limits.

How is a jointer different from a thickness planer?

A jointer creates a flat reference surface; a thickness planer makes the opposite face parallel and sets thickness. Running both faces over a jointer doesn't reliably make them parallel.

A planer's rollers can press a bowed board down during the cut. Without a flat reference face or a suitable flattening sled, the board can spring back afterward.

For rough lumber, the usual sequence is:

Joint one face flat.
Plane the opposite face to thickness.
Joint one edge square to the flat face.
Rip the other edge parallel on a table saw.

Our planer vs jointer comparison explains which machine to buy first. Follow the next milling step in how to use a thickness planer.

When is a jointer worth buying?

A jointer earns its space when you regularly mill rough lumber for furniture, panels, or parts that need square reference surfaces. Occasional work with already surfaced boards may not justify another machine.

Check boards with a straightedge and winding sticks before deciding what to remove. Winding sticks make twist easier to see, while a straightedge helps reveal cup and bow.

Severe warp can cost too much thickness to correct. Mark your required finished dimensions first so you don't flatten a board that will end up too thin.

Where the project allows, cutting rough stock closer to the needed length can reduce the material lost when flattening a bow. Keep those blanks longer than the jointer's minimum workpiece length, with allowance for later trimming.

Skip buying a jointer if most of your work uses plywood or ready-to-use lumber. A hand plane or milling service may cover occasional solid-wood preparation.

How should you choose a benchtop jointer?

Choose by board size, support, and cutter maintenance, then compare convenience features. All 3 options below have a 6 in cutting width, so wider board faces need a different approach.

Table length affects how well you can guide stock, but it isn't a simple maximum board-length rating. Follow the manual's limits and arrange support without lifting the board off the tables.

Check replacement cutter availability before buying. HSS blades, carbide inserts, and full-width knives require different maintenance, and the word “spiral” alone doesn't identify the cutting material.

WEN JT630H: for short boards and HSS cutter maintenance

The WEN JT630H suits a hobby shop preparing short boards and narrow furniture parts. It combines a 30 x 6 in table with 12 staggered HSS blades and a 10 A motor.

Its fence bevels up to 45 degrees, and depth adjustment runs from 0 to 1/8 in per pass. Two push blocks and a 2-1/2 in dust port are included.

Choose it if staggered HSS cutters fit your maintenance plans. Skip it if you want carbide inserts, routinely flatten wide panels, or mainly handle long stock that would be awkward on this bed.

Cutech 40160HB: for buyers who want carbide inserts

The Cutech suits a small-shop buyer who specifically wants two-sided carbide inserts. Its spiral cutterhead holds 12 inserts in 6 rows, and its total bed length is 30 in.

The aluminum tables have a Teflon coating, while the 19-5/8 in fence has stops at 90 and 135 degrees. Those stops help with repeat setups, but check the working angle with a square.

Choose it for the insert system rather than an assumed finish advantage on every wood. Skip it if your boards exceed its capacity or you prefer maintaining full-width knives.

WEN JT3062: for buyers who prefer two-blade cutters

The WEN JT3062 suits buyers who prefer a conventional two-blade cutterhead for face and edge work. Its table measures 30 x 6-3/16 in, while cutting width remains 6 in.

It has a 10 A motor, a fence that bevels up to 45 degrees, and depth adjustment up to 1/8 in. WEN backs it with a 2-year warranty.

Choose it if you're comfortable following the blade-setting procedure when cutters need service. Skip it if you specifically want small inserts or need a longer bed for your usual work.

How do you set up and use a jointer?

Start with a stable machine, a square fence, and shallow cuts. Read the manual for workpiece limits, feed direction, guarding, and required protective equipment before switching it on.

With power disconnected, check that the fence is square and locked. Follow the manual for checking table alignment, cutter position, and guard movement.

Inspect the wood for metal, loose knots, cracks, and embedded grit. Don't joint end grain, and reject pieces that are too short, thin, or narrow for the machine.

Choose the most stable face to start and read the grain to reduce tear-out. Take light passes, using appropriate push blocks and the hand positions shown in the manual.

Guide the board without pressing its warp flat. As a flat section reaches the outfeed table, shift guiding pressure onto that surface so it becomes the reference for the rest of the cut.

Check progress with a straightedge and winding sticks between passes. Once the face is flat, mark it so you can keep it against the fence for edge work and against the planer bed afterward.

Which jointing mistakes waste wood?

The biggest mistakes are cutting too deeply, pressing warp flat, and milling past the needed reference surface. Each can remove wood without producing the geometry your project needs.

A machine's maximum cut isn't a target for every pass. Shallow cuts give you more control over material loss, especially near the finished thickness.

Holding a twisted board flat with heavy pressure can leave twist when that pressure comes off. Support and guide it without trying to bend it straight.

Don't chase a clean surface beyond your thickness allowance. If a low spot remains, stop and decide whether the part can be thinner, shorter, or replaced.

Finally, don't assume an edge is square because it looks straight. Check both straightness and the angle to the reference face before moving on.

How do you care for a jointer in a small shop?

Keep tables clean, cutters sharp, and chip paths clear so stock feeds predictably. Disconnect power before cleaning, clearing blockages, or servicing cutters.

Remove resin buildup with products approved for the machine's table material or coating. Protect bare iron from rust, and avoid abrasives or treatments that could damage coated surfaces.

Inspect cutting edges when feed effort or tear-out increases. Follow the correct replacement procedure and specified fastener torque rather than guessing.

Dust collection needs space alongside the machine and stock path. See our small-shop dust collector guide and benchtop workshop layout guide when planning that space.

The planers and jointers category covers the wider milling workflow. If thickness control is your main need, start with how to choose a thickness planer.

Which jointer should you choose for your work?

Knowing what a jointer is used for makes the decision simpler: buy one when flat reference faces and straight edges are a regular need. Choose the WEN JT630H for staggered HSS blades, the Cutech for two-sided carbide inserts, or the WEN JT3062 for a two-blade cutterhead.

Skip these compact machines if your normal stock needs more width or support than they can safely offer. Use our best benchtop jointer guide to compare options against the boards you actually build with.

Frequently asked questions

What is a jointer used for in woodworking?

A jointer is used for flattening one board face and straightening an edge, which can also be squared to that face; these reference surfaces help with thickness planing, layout, and glue-ups. It removes high spots rather than pressing a warped board into a new shape.

Can a jointer make a board the same thickness?

No, a jointer cannot set a board to a uniform thickness because it doesn't control the distance between opposite faces. Flatten one face, then place that face against a thickness planer's bed; the planer cuts the upper face parallel to the lower one and brings the board to thickness.

Can you joint the edge of a board?

Yes, a jointer can straighten an edge and square it to a flat face held against the fence. Check the fence angle before cutting and follow the manual's workpiece limits; for a glue-up, check the mating edges together for gaps before applying glue or clamping.

Do I need a jointer for a small woodworking shop?

You need a jointer most when you regularly prepare rough lumber for furniture or panels; if you buy flat, surfaced boards, hand tools or occasional milling elsewhere may cover your needs. Allow room for the full board to enter and leave the machine, plus storage and dust collection.

What Is a Jointer Used For?